Models walking the J.W.Anderson runway today wore metallic turtlenecks, tree-printed tunics, and knee-high boots in shades of primary yellow and red, but their most eye-catching accessories came in the form of the designer’s oversize mismatched earrings. The geometric triangles and hoops were emphasized by backstage pro Anthony Turner’s slick, finger-raked buns, which were pulled tightly off the face, twisted up quickly and finished with a slim black clip that left the ends of the hair loose. Paired with glowing skin and neutral makeup, the look conveyed an urban ease that promised to carry one of Anderson’s British cool girls from the gym to dinner in an instant. Just add statement earrings.
Designers to Watch from Central Saint Martins’ 2015 Graduates
Central Saint Martins’ graduate show is always a lengthy event; this year, there were fifteen designers turning ten or more looks each. Yet throughout the hour-long runway, one can’t help but to marvel at the sheer imagination (and sometimes, audacity—a fake penis appeared in James Theseus Buck’s section) these pupils bravely put forth. Moreover, the show was also fueled by an emotional undercurrent: It was the last Saint Martins catwalk that’d had its talent cast over by the late educator, Professor Louise Wilson, whom the fashion world memorialized on Friday morning. These students would have been with Wilson during their first year on the course; at the professor’s memorial, Central Saint Martins’ Jane Rapley acknowledged this poignant point.
Faustine Steinmetz Takes The Look of Denim to Dazzling New Places
Parisian designer Faustine Steinmetz took a big step at her fledgling line this season: She sourced fabrics, predominantly from Cotton USA. “I normally always make my own textiles,” she laughed, “but, I can’t do that for when it’s over 100 pieces!”
“Destroy them a bit more…mess it up some more,” instructed an impeccably turned out Tom Ford as he made last-minute checks on the hair and makeup looks backstage. “Shaggable” was the direction Ford had given lead makeup artist Mary Greenwell and hairstylist Sam McKnight for his Los Angeles show last night, and that meant imperfection. “Tom had a very, very strong idea about the look,” said Greenwell. “I think the effect that [having the show] in Los Angeles has had on the make up is a naturalness that would not have happened in New York or London. It’s less of a look and more the way everyone wants to look.”
Models, including Joan Smalls, Karlie Kloss and Gigi Hadid, who flew in from New York City for the event (and skipped the first day of London Fashion Week), sported flawless matte skin, a smokey brown eye using Tom Ford Cocoa Mirage shadow, Espresso pencil smudged close to the lash, and a Deep Mink lipstick smudged around the eye (Ford’s idea) and down onto the cheek in place of blush. The strong brow was a neutral one. “It’s a really slept-in, gorgeous look,” said Greenwell. “There’s nothing hard about it, there’s nothing severe, there’s no black. Even the lip is very, very muted with concealer on the mouth and just a tiny bit of Lip Color Shine in Bare.”
Tom Ford’s “Shaggable” Updos and Lived-In Makeup: The London Meets Los Angeles Effect
To achieve a modern take on late sixties–early seventies Hollywood hair, McKnight was busy crafting long braids (some models had a bit of help courtesy of hairpieces) before pinning them up in a loose, off-kilter French twist—a look he described as a nod to Tippi Hedren’s voluminous updo mixed with Ali MacGraw’s free flowing plait. “That was our inspiration but we sexed it up and made the braid fat and a little messy,” he said. “I tried to keep it chic and a ‘do,’ but in an undone way, as if they did it themselves this morning, shoved a few more pins in it and voila,” he said of letting a few flyaway wispy pieces float freely in the air while models walked. With front row guests—including Reese Witherspoon and Amy Adams—headed to the Oscars this weekend, expect to see at least one variation of the look on the red carpet on Sunday night.
Faux Fur Takes a Sci-Fi Turn at Shrimps’ Fall Presentation
Designer Hannah Weiland created her own glitter-bombed galaxy for Shrimps’ fall 2015 presentation, transforming a subterranean corner of Somerset House into a dark, sparkly world, complete with giant boulders and a pumping seventies-inspired soundtrack from DJ Hanna Hanra.
“I’ve been looking at Ryan McGinley’s cave photographs,” she said of the glitter-clad decor that dictated the scene’s Studio 54 meets sci-fi feel. “They were a starting point for creating ‘Planet Shrimps,’ a place that’s one part Star Trek and one part Emerald City.” The models inhabiting this high-shine world wore glossy satsuma-hued lips, perma-waves, and shaggy collars that could’ve been shorn straight off a seventies living room floor.